Sean McColl

PROFESSIONAL ROCK CLIMBER

Sean McColl is an avid 28-year-old sport climber who has been competing for the past 18 years. Sean started climbing in 1997 and is now pushing climbing to new heights. He participated on American Ninja Warrior and claims the title of the World Champion in Sport Climbing.

Sean is an 8-time World Champion and has been the best climber in Canada for the past decade. He is 1 of 5 climbers in history to have won the World Cups in 2 disciplines (Lead and Bouldering) and is the ONLY climber to have come top-8 in all Sport Climbing’s disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed). Sean is one of the world’s best climbers! Sean’s home is in North Vancouver although has been living in France on and off since 2011. He has been one of the head and assistant coaches for the 2009-2013 Canadian Youth National Teams. Sean has traveled to Valence (France), Edinburgh (Scotland), Imst (Austria), Singapore and Victoria (Canada) in support of his coaching interests. In 2014 and 2015, Sean’s competition and travel schedule was too hectic to be a major part of the Youth Team, he corresponds and helps them via correspondence. As an athlete, Sean’s accomplishments in this sport are numerous, unprecedented and unrepeated for a climber from Canada (and even Pan America) especially since the sport has been and continues to be dominated by European climbers. Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion in his age group ever year from 1999-2005 having won every National Championships he attended. During his youth career, Sean claimed 5 world titles; since no other youth competitor has won more titles; this achievement is unsurpassed in youth climbing history to this day. Since Sean started competing on the World Cup circuit, he has won 4 events (2 in bouldering, 2 in lead) and been on the podium another 25 times. Sean has won the Overall Combined Rankings and has been 2rd and 3rd in the Lead and Boulder Overall rankings respectively. As an outdoor climber, Sean has onsighted 5.14a (8b+) and climbed multiple 5.14d’s (9a). On the bouldering side, Sean is one of a dozen climbers in the world to flash the grade of V13 (8B) and redpoint V15 (8C).

COMPETITIONS
  • Current 3-time Overall World Champion (2009, 2012, 2014)
  • 4 World Cup Victories
  • 8-time Open Canadian National Champion
  • American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World Contestant (2014, 2015)
  • Adidas Rockstars Champion (2012, 2014, 2015)
  • Psicocomp Champion, 2014
OUTDOORS
Hardest Sport Climbing Ascents:
  • Red Point: 5.14d (9a)
  • Onsight: 5.14a (8b+)
  • Flash: 5.14b (8c)
Hardest Bouldering Ascents:
  • Redpoint: V15 (8C)
  • Flash: v13 (8B)
MISCELLANEOUS
  • Grade 10 Royal Conservatory Piano
  • Avid Soccer (football) Player
  • Computer Science Diploma with Honours
  • Fluent in French and English
What is your height and weight?

I am 169cm (5 foot 6.5 inches) and 59kg (130 lbs).

What is the best way to train/get stronger/get better/improve?

Get a training partner, create a training schedule and follow it!

Do you prefer Lead or Bouldering?

I don’t prefer either, I love the switch. When I get tired of Bouldering, I look forward to the Lead season knowing I’ll be very physically strong and weaker at just the endurance part. When I get sick of Lead, it’s because I want to do physically hard moves and I move back into campus board, dead hangs and pure bouldering movement.

Why do you climb so fast?

This is a complex answer. I’ll start by saying that I boulder for the first 6 months of the year so I’m physically as strong as I’ll be move by move. When I start lead climbing, all I need to do is to push the maximum number of moves I can do in a row upwards. I also know that time is against me in my style of climbing. If I can get to the hard crux moves in 90 seconds vs 180, I’m that much fresher. I’ve tested it for years and I’ve found that I can climb 30 or so moves without getting too pumped regardless of the difficulty. If I climb slowly on a 7b or an 8b I get pumped, if I climb fast sometimes I don’t. I focus on keeping a good rhythm and conserving energy. I try to execute good decisions and keep calm.

Being a shorter competitor, how do you compensate?

I focus on having a very tight core including abs, shoulders and compression. I try to know exactly what I’ll be trying to do and have lots of options to explore if my original method goes awry.

I didn’t get to where I am overnight, not even in a year. It took years and years of training, planning and dedication to get to the level I am now. To be a great champion, always look to improve and work on your weaknesses. Have fun in whatever sport you are doing, and enjoy the process of training, then competing and finally succeeding in what you love.

I started using NexPro in April of 2015, I was approached by a fellow climber who actively worked with Nutraxis’ products. After our conversation, he quickly put me in touch with Mr. Robert Gauthier, Nutraxis’ CEO. I shared with him my concerns associated to taking a protein based supplements such as gaining mass. He quickly assured me that NexPro will definitely not make me gain mass, but actually help me maintain my current weight. I took proper precautions by screening the ingredients with the associations rules and regulations and everything was safe and natural. I had to give it a try!

About a week or two later, I was coming back from a French Cup in Valentine and I felt like every clicked at the competition. I felt like I had extra energy; I had trained well, eaten well and I could only think of the supplements I’ve been taking as being the new addition to my routine. I think my body’s really liked the results from the start!

A lot of people asked me questions about my diet and today’s the day reveal my “secret” diet supplement. It’s all NexPro! Nutraxis’ product is what I live on; they’re the ONLY supplements that I use. What’s so great about them? I felt the effects in only a few weeks. The biggest, and most surprising result I got was a capacity to train more hours in a week and having more energy for those sessions. It assures that I get the most nutrients out of what I’m eating and aids in the digestion process. As I really didn’t want to gain any mass, I was careful in structuring my intake, but I never gained any weight!

– Sean McColl (December 2015)

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